Torre della Meloria

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First things first: location. We’re looking for a tower here. A tower in the middle of the sea. And it is visible in this view over the Terrazza Mascagni, but just barely. The sun goes down right inbetween two tiny dots. These are the tower and the lighthouse which share the name of Meloria. See them?

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Having a zoom lens has its advantages. This is probably as close to the tower islet as I’ll ever come, unless some kind person offers me a boat trip (hint, hint ;-)). The foreground shows the Vegliaia breakwater, a late 19th century construction to protect the port. But the history of the Meloria tower stretches way further back.

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The first tower was built by the Pisans in the 12th century to mark dangerous shallows. It was destroyed by the Genovese in 1286, two years after the Battle of Meloria in which Genoa’s fleet defeated Pisa’s and Pisa was never to rise again as a naval power.
Tower number two was erected by the Grand Duke Ferdinando I in 1598, but was eventually demolished by the forces of the sea.
The current Torre della Meloria dates from 1709. Resting on high arches it is designed to better resist the waves. And how impressive it looks out there, 7 km from the shore.

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Fortezza Nuova outlook

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Fortezza Nuova. The new fortress (16th century) that sits slap bang in the middle of Livorno’s historic centre. Surrounded by water on all sides, this small footbridge is the only way to access the fortress, which now is a public park with an exhibition hall.

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Although the park was closed to the public, I was able to come in and take some photos. The fortress offers great views over the city centre. Here Piazza Garibaldi and Scali delle Cantine.

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Scali del Pontino (the little bridge) and Via Solferino that stretches all the way to Porta San Marco.

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Pontino and the northern part of Venezia, the cranes of the container port in the distance.

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The Antignano stairs

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This oversized staircase leading down to the sea from the main road is a popular place to watch the sunset. Especially with your sweetheart. The day I was there it was completely deserted, probably because the Italians thought it was a very windy day. And no sunset.

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Wednesday

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Wednesday morning I had an appointment to photograph inside the temporarily closed Fortezza Nuova, the New Fortress which is marginally younger than the Old Fortress, both from the 16th century.  From the ramparts one has great views over the city, I’ll post some of these later.

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I met my friend Alina (who I know from Instagram) and she took me for the most wonderful car trip southward. First we stopped for lunch in Ardenza. Walking the windy piers was gorgeous after the sticky humidity yesterday.

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Fish and seafood are the specialties of Livorno. I managed to reject the suggested mussels (I hate mussels!) and instead we had this grilled fish (what was the name again??) which was very good.  The restaurant was right by the sea and for two blissful hours my trip actually felt totally like a holiday.

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Our southbound journey continued and we made a few stops along the way to get out and admire the landscape. Here is a famous and very old tree in Antignano, immortalized by the 19th century artists of Livorno.

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Calafuria, the 16th century defense tower at the wild rocks of Quercianella where people swim in Summer. Hard to believe a day like this, when the waves are merciless and the streams would easily drag you down into the depths. But such a beautiful spot!

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The white beach of Vada was the next lovely stop. We had the vast stretch of land all to ourselves. Only a few small buildings and half buried items sticking out of the sand reminded of the number of visitors here at other times.

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Just by chance  we stumbled upon this old cemetery in Cecina.  Graveyard glory galore.  Terrific place!

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Final stop for today and the actual goal for our trip: An old sugar factory in Cecina which Alina had fallen in love with, written an art project about but never actually seen. We were so lucky to be able to talk our way inside the fences. ..

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Driving north again at dusk, passing other lovely houses that we save for next time. Here Castello del Boccale, a 19th century Medieval style villa now divided into apartments. Something to think about maybe?

Thank you so much Alina, for this wonderful afternoon!

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Montenero

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Montenero is just south of Livorno and offers spectacular views. Fancy a trip there?

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First, take bus number 2 from Piazza Grande and get off at the end station. The same ticket will take you further up the hill, by funicular railway. The yellow house is the station for the over a hundred year old Funicolare di Montenero, so let’s enter.

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This was the first electric funicular in Italy, built in 1906. After the 1990’s renovation it became the world’s first solar-powered funicular!  It’s automated and driverless.
When I went in April, I was the only tourist on board. The other passengers were senior residents in the houses climbing the  hill, or visitors to the Sanctuary.

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After a steep climb, passing villas and gardens and going under lovely little wrought iron footbridges connecting neighbours with each other, we step out and see this. The whole coast stretches out and the cranes and wavebreakers of Livorno are clearly visible even in the sun haze.

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Behind us is the Sanctuary of Montenero, a destination for pilgrims ever since the mid 1300’s. This is well worth a visit, especially for the large collection of wonderful home made votive offerings to thank the Madonna of Montenero for helping people in distress.

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The little piazza glows in the afternoon sun. A perfect spot for an ice cream or a glass of something maybe?

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A nice find is this flower decorated Liberty style villa called Villa Azzurra (meaning blue villa).

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Time to go back downhill again, we don’t want to miss the sunset at the Terrazza Mascagni! Our only option except catching a taxi is to take the same route as we came. Enjoy the funicular ride and who knows, while you wait for the bus 2 you might feel so joyous about this trip that you burst out into singing!

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Bagni Pancaldi Acquaviva

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In my last post the sun cast its last beams of the day through the arches of Bagni Pancaldi. This large private bath complex starts by the Terrazza Mascagni and stretches south for a few hundred metres down to San Jacopo along the beach promenade at Viale Italia.

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This photo is taken from my room at the Grand Hotel Palazzo when I splurged and stayed there one night in April.

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The first rays of the morning sun caresses the worn building while the sea crashes in to it, mercilessly. I imagine a great deal of refurbishing must be done every year to keep the place in good condition.

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It is a great place to watch the breakers and the cargo ships waiting in line for their turn to make port.

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The top floor terrace at the Hotel Palazzo is accessible for non-residents as there is a bar and restaurant. Guess who will sneak up for a drink and bring her camera next time? 😉

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I wonder what this place looks like now, in the hot mid August. Packed with sunlovers and swimmers, no doubt.  I guess that is a sight I will never catch since I shun the heat. But I do look forward to seeing the Pancaldi again this autumn, and I’ll try to order a nice little storm for that occasion 🙂

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Reasons for loving the Terrazza Mascagni #6

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It is one of the greatest places in the world to watch the sunset.

Yup.

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Reasons for loving the Terrazza Mascagni #2

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The sea, the ships and the sky…

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…the same few ingredients that offer dramatic changes and never become dull.

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Sogni d’oro

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I wish you buonanotte with this photo from Livorno and Terrazza Mascagni.

The Italians say Sogni d’oro – golden dreams!

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